The test lights on the 7 to 4-Way Adapter # 47345 will illuminate when there is a signal showing that the circuits are working (on the vehicle side). The bottom one will light up when the running lights are working. The center light will illuminate when the left turn signal and brake lights are working. And the top light will illuminate when the right turn and brake lights are working. view full answer...
Sounds like your trailer doesn't have enough of a ground circuit to power both of your trailer taillights at the same time which is why only one of them is working at a time. So what you can do is improve the grounds of the lights and you should see the lights work again. You can do this by running a jumper wire from the light assemblies up to the main ground of the trailer and also verify that the grounds of each light is connected properly to a clean ground circuit. view full answer...
If your current dome lights only have one wire wired up that would indicate that it's grounding through the sheet metal roof of the trailer. All lights need a power and a ground and most likely the wire was taped to the roof (not ideal at all) or the lights were grounding through the mounting hardware and the second wires were for another function or a brighter illumination.
The part # RVILL34 has a power and a ground wire. As long as you can provide both those circuit this light is going... view full answer...
This sounds like a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light but can show up any time.
Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
The light grounds should also be attached to clean... view full answer...
On a 7-way trailer connector, the 12V power function does not need to be connected for the other functions such as clearance lights, tail lights, stop and turn lights to work properly. The battery of your vehicle needs to be charged enough to draw a little power for the lights or to start your engine for your trailer lights to work under alternator power.
If you are talking about a trailer battery charging or any internal lighting in a travel trailer or 5th wheel, you would need that... view full answer...
Yes, the tail lights on your 2017 Jeep Compass will still work like normal even if the trailer wiring harness power is interrupted or something else happens to it (such as a short from the trailer). The connectors have a pass-through type of design and the wiring harness # C56369 for the new body style Compass is only using the tail light connections to know when you are using the brakes, turn signals, and running lights. view full answer...
First, if you are switching to LED lights on the trailer, make sure to replace all of the incandescents with LEDs. Mixing the two styles can result in some of the lights not working and/or malfunctions.
Clearance lights, LED or otherwise, that have 2 wires use one wire for power and the other is the ground that attaches to the trailer frame. Clearance lights run off of the running light circuit, the brown wire if you are looking at trailer light kit # TL16RK. The wires from the old lights... view full answer...
One license plate bracket with an LED light that may work for you is the Optronics LED Trailer License Plate Light with Mounting Bracket, # LPL55CB. At this time there are no license plate brackets with lights that are specifically designed to work with hitch mounted cargo carriers, but this bracket provides attachment points for a license plate.
You will just want to find a way to attach the bracket to the cargo carrier. In most cases, the bracket is screwed directly to the top rail... view full answer...
The Roadmaster Brite-Lite Wiring Converter # RM-732 that you referenced will work the same as your existing Curt unit in that it will convert a 3 wire system on a towing vehicle to a 2-wire system on the towed vehicle or trailer. It won't provide a better solution than what you already have.
Are the hazard lights not working at all or are they just not flashing the amber lights on the vehicle? Because of how signal converters are designed there isn't really a good way to make the signals... view full answer...
A circuit tester like part # PTW2993 is meant to test the power going through the circuits of your 4-way. I've linked to a video demonstration of this so you can see how it works.
The taillights are not supposed to have any power going through the circuit unless the headlights are on. Your tester is working correctly and at least your running lights' fuse is working correctly as well. view full answer...
If you are looking at the front of the 7-Way connector the # 4 terminal which is at the 1:00 position will be the 12 volt power connection. If you do not have power run to the # 4 terminal on the 7-Way vehicle connector you will want to run a 10 gauge wire like the #10-1-1, from the positive post on the vehicle battery through a 40 amp circuit breaker like the # PK54540, to the # 4 terminal on the vehicles 7-Way connector. This will give you 12 volt power to the 7-Way.
You will then need... view full answer...
You could certainly use Opti-Brite LED work light # TLL48FB on your horse trailer and put it on a switch but having it wired into the running light circuit could have some unintended issues. Specifically, if you forgot to turn the switch off and drove away with the light still on you would blind driver's behind you! If the trailer has a battery I recommend wiring the light to it directly via a switch.
But if you want to go ahead and wire it in line with the running lights then all you... view full answer...
Yes, if you have correctly attached the wires to your Hopkins # HM48503 7-way trailer connector with test lights, then each of the LED indicators will light as the function is used. If the tester light does not light up, then the corresponding light or function on the trailer will not work either.
I have attached a video that demonstrates how the wires are connected inside the unit, and shows how the lights come one with each feature.
If you would prefer a stand-alone tester you might... view full answer...
Yes, if you install the Curt 4-way to 7-way Adapter # C57674 and the Tekonsha T-One Connector # 118336 you will have the trailer running lights come on at night when your headlights are turned on, and your turn signals and brake lights will still work just fine.
The running lights are a dimmer light so the brake lights and turn signals will still be visible when turned on.
The # ETBC7 you mentioned will function the exact same way with the main difference being it includes wiring and... view full answer...
It's possible that the interior lights on your Lark enclosed trailer are simply exceeding the amperage capacity of the running light circuit on your Escalade. I recommend first verifying the amperage draw needed for the trailer's interior lights to see if this might be the issue.
Otherwise it is just a matter of checking the connection from the interior lights to your running lights circuit. Since you know the 4-Way wiring on the trailer is good after testing it with 12V power, you will... view full answer...
The Curt 2 to 3 Wire Tail Light Converter # C56196 is definitely designed to separate out the light functions like you're wanting (Curt claims it won't work with LED lights but that's been debatable) but I do see the problem with your installation.
You ran your stop/trun light wires from the 4-Way plug to the converter, but you also bypassed the converter and have those same wires on the output end of the converter. Once you eliminate the yellow and green wires from being on both ends... view full answer...
I do have an option for you but the Thin-Line LED Racing Light Kit part # LS-108 will not work on a 24 volt system. I am not sure what you are wanting to use the lights for but we do offer the Opti-Brite LED Work Light part # TLL60FB which is compatible with a 24 volt system.
I have attached a review video of the light for you as well. view full answer...
This sounds like a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light, but can show up any time.
Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
The light grounds should also be attached to clean... view full answer...
You will need a circuit tester, like part # PTW2993, to make sure the c enter pin on the vehicle 7-way trailer connector is active for the reverse lights.
Then make sure the wiring for the lights that are designated for the back-up function on the trailer are run to the correct corresponding pin on the trailer 7-way.
An example for one of our taillight assemblies # STL161RB there are 4-wires at the back of the light. The White wire is for the ground, Black is for the running light,... view full answer...
A submersible trailer light will have holes in it to allow water to come in and drain back out again. There is another type of light, a sealed unit, that is not supposed to let water in it. The amber lights in kit # TL16RK, are sealed lights, but the tail lights are not sealed units. It does sound like they are working as they are supposed to. Just make sure that your wiring connections are waterproof! view full answer...
Go To Results